Paris is magic—but only if you avoid the rookie mistakes that can turn your dream vacation into a jet-lagged scavenger hunt with a side of soggy socks. First off, while staying near the Eiffel Tower sounds great, it’s often overpriced, quiet at night, and farther from the action. For a better experience, stay in neighborhoods like Le Marais, the Latin Quarter, or Saint-Germain, where you’ll get more charm, better food, and easier access to the city’s best sights. Now, here’s how to sidestep the most common travel blunders and enjoy Paris like a pro.
1. Airbnb Can Break Your Heart
Airbnb might be great in the States, but in France? It’s a gamble. Last-minute cancellations are a thing, and when it happens, you're left scrambling to book an overpriced broom closet with a view of a wall. Want to lower the risk? Stick to Superhosts only.
Also, prepare for an awkward arrival. If your flight lands at 6 a.m. and check-in isn’t until 3 p.m., your Airbnb likely won’t store your bags. Unless your host is a unicorn, you'll end up guarding your luggage in a café, slowly fusing with the furniture as jet lag crushes your will to live.
Oh, and those listings bragging about a “great view”? That usually means fifth-floor walk-up with no elevator. Fun with luggage. Bonus tip: no window screens. Bring bug spray and a sense of humor.
2. Sleep on the Plane or Pay the Price
Not sleeping on the flight is the international rookie move of the century. Yes, the movies are tempting. Yes, that seat is made of medieval torture foam. But even a few hours of sleep can save your first day in Paris.
Upgrading your seat—just a little—can be a game-changer. A few extra inches of space could mean arriving human instead of zombie. And trust us: your goal is to stay awake until local bedtime. How well you handle that first day determines how long you’ll be a jet-lagged mess.
3. Don’t Fall for the Museum Pass Trap
Paris museums are incredible. But here’s the truth: you won’t hit more than one big one a day unless you’re part machine. Most people tap out after 2–4 hours. The Louvre alone will melt your brain and feet.
So skip the Paris Museum Pass unless you’re planning a sprint. Instead, pick a few favorites and book tickets in advance—which you should do anyway because lines are long and your time is precious.
4. Transit with Luggage? Think Again
The Metro is great... until you try it with two suitcases and three hours of sleep. Many stations don’t have elevators or working escalators, so be ready to haul bags up endless stairs while Parisians silently judge you.
Save yourself. Book a car from the airport. It’s not flashy—it’s just the smart move. Door-to-door service, no stairs, no crowds, no regrets.
5. Don’t Fall for the Scams
Paris is safe, but the scams are from seasoned professionals. Watch out for:
- People with clipboards asking if you speak English (they’re distracting you while their buddy checks your pockets).
- Guys trying to tie a bracelet on your wrist (congrats, now you owe them €10).
- Someone who “found” a gold ring on the ground (spoiler: it’s not yours, and it’s not gold).
Best defense? Look busy, walk confidently, and ignore strangers trying to chat you up near landmarks.
6. Money Matters—Don’t Get Played
Do not get euros from your bank in the U.S.—the rates are trash. Use a credit card with no foreign transaction fees, and when asked, always pay in euros, not dollars. That “convert to USD” button? It’s a scam dressed as convenience.
Let your bank do the math—you’ll get a much better exchange rate.
7. Pack Like a Parisian, Not a Tourist
Paris weather is moody. Sun one minute, surprise rain the next. Pack a small umbrella or light rain jacket, even in summer.
Also, Paris is a walking city, so skip the stilettos or brand-new loafers. Bring comfortable, weather-appropriate shoes that won’t destroy your feet. Layer clothes instead of packing heavy stuff, and ditch the giant travel umbrella for the love of fashion—it’s a sidewalk menace and a tourist billboard.
With these tips in mind, you’ll skip the stress and soak up everything Paris has to offer. Less drama, more croissants. Viola!
And if you’re looking to make your trip even smoother, why not take advantage of a complimentary 15-minute Zoom call with me? We can discuss personalized concierge services, exclusive tours, and how I can be your ally abroad, ensuring your Paris experience is nothing short of perfect. Book your session today, and let’s make your Paris adventure as seamless as possible!
Photo de Ceyda Çiftci sur Unsplash
Photo de lo lindo sur Unsplash
Photo de Antonio Sessa sur Unsplash
Most visitors to Paris want to spend some time being Parisian, and there’s nothing more Parisian than an authentic café! Mealtime, even a simple “coffee break” is sacred to the French. In 1894, France enacted a labor law forbidding employees from eating at their desks. This led to cantines (cafeterias) at workplaces and restaurants where employees could gather and socialize during lunch, or employees going home or to a park to spend time and eat lunch with their families and friends. The most iconic example of this today is the French café, where Parisians go to eat, spend time with family and friends, or just enjoy the City and la patisserie. So here are some tips to help you look, and feel, like a true Parisian.
1. Getting a table
When you approach a cafe, even if it has plenty of open tables, don't just sit without acknowledging the staff. Stand at the edge of the tables in front of the restaurant entry and a waiter or manager will approach or acknowledge you and ask inside or on the terrace. Say Bonjour and hold up the number of fingers in your party, and motion for inside or out, or reply with “Terrace “ (outside) or “Enterior” (inside). They will tell you where to sit or ask you to “install” yourself where you wish.
2. Where to sit
After indicating inside or out, staff may ask you if you will be eating, and sit you accordingly. If they don’t ask and let you choose a table, choose a table that is set with glassware and silverware only if you plan to eat something. If you're not eating, and only want a beverage, you should choose a table that has a drink menu and ashtray. In France, smoking is still common. If you don't want to sit near a smoker, choose an interior seat where smoking is prohibited. Smoking on restaurant terraces is permitted, and you should not ask neighboring tables to refrain from smoking. Sitting outside can also be chilly, Outdoor heaters are not allowed, but many restaurants have blankets available so be sure to ask if you are cold. Be prepared to rub elbows, the seating is tight and even more so when it rains.
3. Water
When your server arrives at your table, the first thing they generally will ask is if you want water. If you say yes they will ask if you want still or sparking (“gazeus”). Keep in mind that unless you specifically ask for a carafe of (tap) water, it will be bottled water and you will have to pay for it. Tap water is fine to drink and free —just tell the server you want a “carafe.” Don't expect ice, and if you ask for it, chances are you’ll only get 3 or 4 cubes.
4. Timing
If you'd like to hang out in a cafe and watch the fashion show parade on the sidewalks in front of you, plan to do so in the morning or afternoon (between lunch and dinner time) when it is customary to sit for an extended amount of time. The best time of day to sit in a cafe is the afternoon. Grab a table early enough for Apéritif/Apero(Happy Hour). That's when the after-work crowd will gather at the little tables. You can usually linger at a café in the morning as well. The locals will stop in for coffee and a croissant, but if the café is serving Sunday brunch and there’s a line, don’t dawdle. The staff also won’t like it if you take up a table for drinks only, or sit for an extended period of time, during lunchtime or dinner, especially when there’s a line of diners
5. Reservations
France is famous for its cuisine, and all visitors should plan at least one special meal. Eating out is also very popular among locals, so reservations are a must. A good travel concierge can find someplace special, or make a personalized reservation for you. The French eat later than Americans and the fashionable reservation is 8 or 9 pm, and most restaurants don’t open before 7 pm. Your travel concierge can make a reservation for you, or you can try online, usually up to 6 weeks in advance.
6. Choose Restaurants wisely
Another reason a reservation is a good idea is that premade food is reheated and served in most of Paris’ cafes. If the menu has too many options to count, the food is likely coming from the freezer. This is a prime example of less is more. Friend's recommendations should be researched since things change quickly in the culinary scene and often a great place no longer lives up to the memories.
https://francetoday.com/food-drink/what-does-frances-new-homemade-label-mean-for-french-restaurants/
7. Rude Waiters
Don’t believe the rumors, most French waiters are very polite, and rude behavior is usually a reaction to perceived rudeness! Other than in fine dining, most French cafes and restaurants employ fewer staff than in the United States, and the customs are different. French waiters usually leave you alone for some time. This allows time to sit back and relax. But when they do come to your table, be ready. Time is precious and they will get irritated if you hem and haw over choices. If your menu is open, they will assume you are still deciding. When you’re ready to order, close your menu. They will not bring the check until you motion that you are done and ready to pay. If in a high-traffic tourist area, they may bring the bill at the same time as the drinks so you don't wander off without paying. If they are nowhere in sight when you wish to leave, just head into the bar and they will help you at the counter.
8. Leftovers and Restrictions
France recently adopted laws requiring restaurants to have “to go” cartons so while it is legal to take your leftovers, it is considered bad etiquette. Portions sizes are smaller and you're expected to finish your meal, not to bring it home. They also don't respond well to customizing the menu, substitutions are usually disregarded although more cafes and restaurants are offering options for those with dietary restrictions. Almost all cafes now include a vegetarian option on the menu, but you most likely will need a larger, more upscale dining option to accommodate other dietary needs.
9. Restrooms
Be sure to use the restrooms before you leave since they are hard to find and not as pleasant on the streets. You must purchase something to use a restaurant's facilities. There is a different price to have a coffee at the bar inside than if you sit at a table with a waiter service. A quick easy and relatively inexpensive bathroom break is when you ask for a café (espresso) at the bar and tell them you'll be right back after using the facilities. Generally, the bathroom will be downstairs, but if you’re unsure, ask for the WC and staff will direct you.
10. Tipping
The most debated subject at cafes is to tip or not to tip. You are not obligated to tip, but it is considerate. “Pourboire” is an old term meaning “to drink” and it is customary to give your server enough to get one. The amount is debatable. A simple cafe warrants a coin or two. If service is good round it up to the closest euro. In general, the average tip is 10% is and the tips are shared with the entire staff. Before they put the amount due into the credit card machine, you can ask them to add a specific amount, but cash is always appreciated.
Be sure to check out a couple of specialiets of the cafes during your trip. I recommend the “Cafe Gourmand” where you will get a few house-made mini desserts to enjoy with your coffee or tea. Or the obligatory cheese board with optional charcuterie. You’ll see a lot of orange Aperol Spritz’s being consumed. Be sure to look into the other person's eyes when you clink glasses. Ask a French person the reason why! With all these tips you will surely have the best service during your cafe time. Be sure to drop us a line so we can help make those memorable dining experiences come true on your trip to Paris.
When I look up my business on the internet, the thing that comes up first and is the most searched is my blog on the 2021 Best Croissants in Paris. After so long, I wondered why it still gets hits. and Being as it is popular, I decided to revisit the hunt for the next best one. I can't say it was hard to force myself to eat all those croissants, but I took one for the team. This is a guide for you to know where to search on your next Paris trip. I admit that some of them didn't meet the blog status, but they were very good. In fact, the lower-scoring croissants are still very good. It was hard to critique so many excellent contenders but here are my thoughts on the choices making news today.
2024 Top 13 Croissants
1. Georges DOUCET – Maison Doucet – 234, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75012
“HOT”
. Thierry Rabineau – Boulangerie Moderne, 16 rue des Fossés
“Snaps”
3. Boris Lumé-, 75018
“Chiffon Dress”
4. Victoire DARY – Boulangerie Victoire12 Rue Cadet, 75009 Paris
“Flakey”
5. Mamiche-45 Rue Condorcet, 75009
“Flat”
6. Benjamin Turquier -Tout Autour du Pain-134 Rue de Turenne, 75003
“Inconsistent”
7. Poilâne -38 Rue Debelleyme, 75003
“Sad Ending”
8. Boulangerie Utopie 20 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011
“The Dunker”
9. Jean-Yves Boullier – Le Moulin de la Croix Nivert, 39 rue de la Croix Nivert, 75015
“Sahara”
10. Chez Meunier-various locations
“Butter Bomb”
11. French bastards-various locations
“Ancient”
The Hype:
12. Maison Louvard-Crookie-11 Rue de Châteaudun, 75009 Paris
“Raw”
13. Bo&Mie-NY Roll Exotique- various locations
“Creamy”
1.Georges DOUCET – Maison Doucet – 234, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75012
“Hot”
This year France awarded 1st place for the croissant at Maison Doucet, and I couldn't agree more. Kudos to baker Georges DOUCET for bringing in the accolades. I knew this one had to be sampled but didn’t realize how hard it would be. It took two visits and a 45-minute wait to get one and I can understand why. I admit they had an unfair advantage selling a hot croissant fresh out of the oven. What’s not to like about that? At first I thought it was undercooked because of the moist center, but it ended up melting in my mouth without a doughy texture or taste. Extremely flakey, each pinch tore apart further than average making tiny mouthfuls of buttery goodness. Maybe a little too buttery but who doesn't like French butter? Even inner layers flake like little pieces of tissue paper proving how light the dough was. In all, I’d say the boulangerie in the 12th is worthy of top honors.
2. Boris Lumé-28 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris, France 75018
“Chiffon Dress”
It’s a bit of an effort to get there being farther from the city center, but boy was it worth the trek. The croissant's long shape is different than the Turkish crescent moon traditionally produced, but the color and lamination are alluring nonetheless. The ridges of each layer are like a chiffon dress on a summer day. I was feeling a little dreamy admiring my conquest. I generally pulled off the tip to start my taste test and found it to be easily separated from the body of the pastry. I was surprised by the light delicate dough that was neither too buttery nor dense. In short, this was as close to the perfect croissant as I’ve come across. The shop sells very few options since this little jewel proves the star.
3. Thierry Rabineau – Boulangerie Moderne, 16 rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, 75005
“Snaps”
Potato chip flakes of dough easily snap off while still holding it’s form. This croissant is more than good. Figures that unrealistic Emily in Paris truly does have the best boulangerie or at least second. Rabineau won second place in this year's recognized best croissant competition. Around the corner from the
Pantheon, it adds to a perfect walk in the 5th Arrondissement. The color consistency from top side to under was well noted and the tear factor was appropriate as it didn’t take off huge sections shortening the experience. I admit a bit more butter left over in my fingertips but I can truly say that you can taste the difference.
4. Victoire DARY – 12 Rue Cadet, 75009 Paris
“Flakey”
The Boulangerie is a stone though away from the trending Crookies that may be an indication of the hip neighborhood of the 9eme. This croissant tears easily into many layers that are not overly flakey. I can say that it was surprisingly evenly cooked. There wasn't a hint of dough in the center and it has an even of color from the top to the bottom. I also found it was not too greasy Though it lacks crunch which is probably more my preference than being authentic. Chef DARY makes a very nice croissant with a mellow taste worthy of top nods.
5. Mamiche-45 Rue Condorcet, 75009
“Flat”
Don’t let looks deceive you, though it’s a flat croissant in looks, it’s anything but that when it comes to taste. I suspect it’s the butter that weighs down the traditional puffy center, but who can fault a Viennoiserie for that? If the flake factor in your taste isn’t a question, then this is the one for you. While large in size it isn’t overwhelming. There is a surprisingly slightly sweet initial taste complimenting the buttery center. It is a moist vehicle of culinary gluttony. This go-to modern hybrid boulangerie has two locations in the trendier parts of town. Be prepared for a line which is worth the wait or get up early to be first at the door before they open.
6. Benjamin Turquier -Tout Autour du Pain-134 Rue de Turenne, 75003
“Uneven”
I was excited to try this 2023 8th place winner for best croissant. I can’t say anything bad about these croissants but at the same time, I can’t say anything great. It’s a down the middle average and that’s nothing to be ashamed of. It’s a bit on the denser side and the bottom has a slight crunch of darker shell from contact with the warm oven. I liked it but not more than most. It would be a great go-to if you lived locally but no need to hunt it out.
7. Poilâne -38 Rue Debelleyme, 75003
“In the end”
No denying the initial crunch of the exterior of the traditional half-moon-shaped croissant was delightful. The inside was light and fluffy living up to the long-standing excellent reputation. You could easily pull the center out leaving a shell of the pastry that isn’t as buttery holding up to thumb-sized dents and bouncing back to form quickly. Maybe a slight on the dry side making for a great companion to your morning beverage of choice.
8. Boulangerie Utopie 20 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011
“The Dunker”
If you’re a coffee dunker this is the croissant for you. It’s a bit denser than the other contenders thus far making it ideal to hold up to a streaming beverage. It has an almost bready quality lending itself to more of a brioche than a croissant. It is not too heavy on the butter, but the paper bag it comes in begs to differ. While here be sure to buy the newly awarded 2024 best baguette which will be supplied to the French White House this year!
9. Jean-Yves Boullier – Le Moulin de la Croix Nivert, 39 rue de la Croix Nivert, 75015
“Dichotomy”
Though the taste was outstanding it almost felt stale regarding my tear apart technique. It was rather hard to pull apart and a bit too moist in the center which didn’t add to the tear part test. I prefer a lighter croissant and was a bit sad because this Boulangerie has won several awards over the years including recognition from the 2024 (number 3) top croissant lists. I wouldn’t be disappointed if this was my neighborhood boulangerie, but after trying better I’m a bit biased. Still worth trying in the area, but it wasn’t as good as I had hoped.
10. Chez Meunier-various locations
“Butter bomb”
From the start, it is so light and flakey that your fingers dent the exterior providing a good crunch that holds up to some chewing. The inside is a different story. Hard to believe but there is such a thing as too much butter. The inside is a little too moist giving it an undercooked doughiness. It compresses down to a flat viennoiserie but remains tasty nonetheless. Kudos to Eric Teboul one of the winners of the 2023 best croissant competition.
11. French bastards-various locations
“Stale”
Maybe it's just the shop name that draws me in, or perhaps the updated versions of some classic viennoiserie favorites that have my attention. I made a mistake in going early afternoon and to tell the truth, I felt it was a little dry and suffered from not being consumed at a proper breakfast time. With new locations popping up around Paris, I’d recommend you skip the croissant and move toward the other delights they specialize in.
12. Maison Louvard-Crookie-11 Rue de Châteaudun, 75009 Paris
“Raw”
It's all over social media, and I understand why. The concept is fun, but not as successful as the original croissant hybrid, the Cruffin. I happen to like raw cookie dough so this concoction was good for me. But it wasn't just the cookie dough that was raw, the interior of the croissant was underdone, making for seriously greasy hands. It's a little too sweet which says something since I have an insatiable sweet tooth. They are being replicated in several other shops around town but be prepared to skip a meal, this gut buster will stick to the bones for quit some time.
13. Bo&Mie-NY Roll Exotique- various locations
“Creamy”
The rightfully self-claimed creative boulangerie is worth the hype though avoid the lines. Plenty of hours where you can walk in but mid-day sandwich options bring out an extra number of admirers. The beautiful NY… is alluring standing upright in a temptatious manner. But sadly the cream filling to flakey pastry dough is out of balance. It’s a messy vehicle for the inside cream easily losing the croissant’s essence. Although it’s a miss, there are plenty of other hits making it a great stop on your quest for great treats. I recommend the Paves.
Though they didn’t all get great reviews, the difference between them was so minute that you would never notice unless you tried them side by side. I could have kept going to other worthy croissants acknowledged publicly; but, I knew at some point I had to stop. I am convinced that the best croissant is near your lodgings/home. My suggestions are merely my opinion and your taste may differ. I am sure that you will find your best croissant here but if you're up for an adventure choose one of the above and explore a new area. Be sure to ask about other culinary treats when planning your next Paris trip and as your personal concierge, I will make sure that you come out on the winning side of the culinary portion of your trip.
One of the top desires of a Paris traveler is to experience the real life of a Parisian. A great way to have an authentic Paris experience is the travel the city by Metro. With a few tips, you will be navigating the Metro, and Paris, like a pro in no time.
Rules of the road
The stairs and escalators are busy. Like driving a car, slower traffic should stay to the right. When riding on the escalator, always stand single file on the right so other people can walk, or run, by you on the left. Look for arrows on the ground indicating where you should be, and you will also find numbered footprints indicating connecting metro lines and regional trains.
Overcrowded cars
If the Metro car is too crowded for your liking, try standing in the accordion section that connects two cars. This funny little spot has fewer riders, but beware, the floor moves as the Metro car snakes around corners. The seats immediately next to the doors fold up allowing you to stand when the car becomes crowded. Riders who are elderly, mobility-challenged, or pregnant can always remain seated, but everyone else needs to stand in a crowded car. Generally speaking, the middle of the platform lines up with the middle of the train, which tends to be less crowded because most riders tend to be near either end of the car where the entries and exits are located.
Doors
To avoid looking and feeling confused, know there are three ways to exit the train car. One is a green button you push on the handle of the door. Another option on older Metro lines is a latch handle that you crank open triggering the doors to separate. The last and easiest is of course the automated doors. While it is not uncommon for people to hold the doors open to let people on, this delays the train and forces the following cars to stop and wait, which no one likes.
Entering and exiting
When the Metro stops, you feel anxious or rushed, but the best thing to do is stand to the side of the open doors and let exiting passengers get off first. You will have time to enter the train car. Likewise, while riding the Metro, if you are standing in front of the doors, you should step out onto the platform to the side of the open doors and let other passengers exit. If the Metro is crowded and you find yourself in a less-than-optimal place to exit the train car, say excuse me and people will let you pass. They will understand your English in this situation.
Ticket sellers
You might find people offering to sell you discounted Metro tickets, often at a Metro station. Though avoiding the ticket lines is tempting, these people should be avoided. Many of the tickets they sell you are invalid, parting you with your money. The ticket on top may work fine but the following tickets are often void. Being scammed can put a real damper on your experience and tarnish the metro experience.
Phones
Don’t hold your phone or have it protruding from your pockets or in an open bag when the Metro train comes to a stop. A thief can snatch it in an instant and is usually already out the door before you have time to react. While it is handy to have a credit card with you while sightseeing, you should leave a spare credit card and your passport in the safe at your hotel unless you will be shopping for luxury goods. Occasionally, purses, backpacks, and tote bags are stolen, or thieves find a way to get into your bag, especially in cramped cars..
Americans have a bad rap about being loud. To be fair, we are. There is an unspoken rule to avoid loud conversations while riding the Metro. Not only is this a dead giveaway that you are a tourist, but it’s also considered a bit rude. Being a tourist is normal and welcome in Paris, but it also makes you more vulnerable to thieves or pickpockets.
Machines have English toggle
There are automated ticket machines near the entrance of most stations that have an English option where you can buy tickets and get information, or you can buy tickets from an attendant. Most of the time you only need a ticket and confidence to navigate the system. To avoid long lines, use the automated machines. Choose single journey tickets for the metro and buy a pack of 10 or 20 to share with your fellow travelers to save time and money. The machines at the Metro stations near popular tourist sites tend to have long lines, so save time when you can by buying tickets at a local station.
Ticket Control
It’s not uncommon for young men to “tailgate” through a Metro turnstile rather than buy their own ticket. This is illegal. Hold onto your ticket until you exit the Metro to prove you have your own ticket and aren’t a tailgater. And if you do receive a tailgating fine, you will need to pay it on the spot. The Metro fare inspectors carry credit card machines.
Wheelchair access
Being over 100 years old, the Metro is hard to renovate. It’s also the 2nd largest underground transportation system in the world, which makes it challenging to remodel or upgrade. As a result, mobility-challenged riders may not find a working elevator at every station, and it’s not uncommon for escalators to be out of service. This can also be challenging for travelers with large suitcases. For some, it may be better to arrange a car service than rely on the Metro or regional trains.
Separations and navigation
Make a plan to meet your party on the platform at the next Metro stop if your group gets separated. It’s easier to reunite before you reach your destination and catch the next train. The city center and the train stations (gares) can be confusing, but the signage is pretty good. Exit signs say “sortie” and will be blue or green. There will also be brown signs with icons representing the monument that is located at the Metro stop you are using. Google Maps will show multiple exit options at larger stops, and you can follow an indicated door number to a street which puts you in the direction of your destination.
Knowing a bit more about the Metro will build your confidence in using this efficient mode of transport. It is not just faster than walking or taking a car, but it is also cheaper. Google Maps is your friend; often telling you the estimated time it will take, but still allowing for delays so as not to miss reservations and activities.
Don't miss out on this chance to see the real city and sometimes you'll even be rewarded by live music, flowers, and shops. Enjoy Paris and the Metro. Be sure to contact us for your next tour where we will review these tips and build your confidence for your further vacation use both in Paris and beyond.
Not only do we love running our tours, meeting all sorts of amazing people and showing them the less touristy side of Paris, we also feel very honored when they choose to write a whole article about us and the great time they’ve had. Check out the blog about our Paris Flea Market Tours at Wine, Dine and Travel
Our very own Allison Isambert was asked to contribute to a new series within “Wine, Dine and Travel” Magazine: Paris Insider.
Check it out
There is a legitimate thing called Paris Syndrome. It affects mostly visitors from Asia and basically is the sense of disappointment by some guests when visiting Paris. When they realize that the city is not what they had expected, they go into a depression. As I hate to see anyone disappointed, I thought that maybe an alternative blog approach would be appreciated.
The title of this Blog might be a bit controversial. No one wants to hate the City of Lights; she couldn’t have a not-so-dreamy side. But alas she does, and the following is not just factual but common. Maybe this will be just the place to learn a bit about the unsavory aspects of visiting your fantasy retreat. I don’t write this out of any hatred of the place; I live here after all and have the ability to leave if I so chose, but there are several challenges that make life here a bit of an adaptation.
Not every day is a scene from Emily in Paris and maybe Parisians would like the show more if it showed it the way it really is. Now don’t get me wrong, as a tourist, you will have many magical moments. That goes for locals too, but knowing the issues the city offers will perhaps allow you to accept them as they inevitably show up on your trip.
1. Homelessness and Scams
Street people are real, and you will see them. There are a variety of different people on the street: some are mentally ill, some are refugees, and some are working together to try and part you from your money. But in general, they are mostly harmless. They may approach you mumbling in French with a handout, but you can decline their requests.
You will see a number of men hawking souvenirs, Eiffel Tower keychains, and selfie sticks on canvas squares that can be gathered quickly as police approach and reassembled when they have passed. There are a few scams to be aware of, like girls with clipboards requesting your signature for a good cause that does not exist or will not see your money. There is The Shell Game (find the pea), pickpockets, bracelets at Sacre Coeur, and The Ring Scam where there are fewer people. All of which you can read details about by googling the subject. Being aware of these things will better prepare you, though it’s not what you want to see on vacation.
2. Dog Poop
The city of Paris employs people to do a variety of things for the betterment of society and one is street cleaners in all neighborhoods. These men and women equipped with rolling trash cans and brooms are responsible for cleaning the streets despite there being many trash cans widely available. The majority of conscientious people clean up after their pets, but some think it’s beneath them, especially when there is someone else to do the work. Why deprive them of their job? The problem arises when one of these employees doesn’t care about their vocation and walks around the work at hand. As beautiful as it is to look up at the buildings, keep your eyes on the sidewalk to avoid a messy misstep.
3. Weather
Springtime in Paris is a unique thing. During my first April, I got into the metro with clear skies above, but as I exited, the pea-sized hail balls stung, making welts on my skin. No kidding, you don’t know about the community until you’re shoulder to shoulder with other victims under an awning that’s much too small. Don’t bother watching the weather report for when you come visiting; it will rain and be sunny guaranteed. Visitors are not aware of this, but it rains 155 days a year in Paris. Pack an umbrella bring a spare pair of shoes if you need to let one pair dry out, and plan on wearing layers.
5. Rude people
As in the past, it’s still not uncommon for shop owners to live above their business. Basically, the shop is an extension of their home. Would you ever walk into someone’s home and not greet them? This is exactly why you should always throw out a “Bonjour,” when entering the premises. Simple etiquette is all that is required to melt the frozen French heart. Along with that, it’s polite to say “Au revoir” or “Merci” as you exit. This will ensure you receive better service than the person who told you that the French were rude. It’s nice to treat your servers in the restaurants the same way. Don’t think they are singling you out by seemingly ignoring you, they are doing it to the French too. Be sure to ask for the check. They rarely will bring it on their own because they don’t want to rush you, which is really very nice once you get used to it.
6. Bathrooms
It’s not an easy city for restrooms, the malls will charge you and there just are never enough. You can use them for free in McDonald’s and Starbucks and though there are plenty to be found especially in tourist areas, they are often overused and a bit of a mess. The public restrooms in the street usually have a decent line and that’s no good when you feel the need. There is a solution though, the cafés! There are two different prices for coffee, one if you stand at the bar and one if you sit down, both entitle you to the use of their restrooms. Besides, you probably could use a little break from all the sightseeing.
It’s easy to write fluffy pretty Paris tales, but not so realistic. It’s not popular to point out the negative side of things, but they say it is better to know your enemy. Maybe with a little knowledge, you’ll be able to avoid the pitfalls of the real Paris. When people say how lucky I am to live here, I agree but also remind them, It is a city with the same issues as all big cities have. Hopefully knowing the challenging side of her will better prepare you so you can really cherish your Paris memories.
Croissants may be the most desired pastry that travelers search out upon arrival in France, but there is a missed opportunity here. We don’t often find the same things out of the country, so why not try some other simple baked goods while in town? This blog is dedicated to five unsung heroes of the French baking world. Typically these treats are called viennoiserie.
Viennoiseries are baked goods made from a yeast-leavened dough similar to bread or brioche, or from puff pastry. There are a few added ingredients giving them a richer, sweeter pastry. The dough is often shiny and hosts a variety of fruits, chocolate, and creams. Viennoiseries are typically eaten at breakfast or as snacks and are a bridge between bread and pastry. They are usually found near the register and the baguettes.
Chausson aux pomme
According to legend, Chaussons aux Pommes (apple turnovers) was invented in 1630 in Saint Calais in the Sarthe region of France. The town was suffering from an epidemic (sound familiar) and a woman of the town distributed flour and apples to the poor of which they made apple turnovers. In the states, you have a version of a hot apple pie at McDonald’s’, but this is definitely not the same kind of fast food. In my tastings, I have found what I consider the best Chaussons aux pommes in Paris at The Boulanger de la Tour, the baby sister to the famed restaurant La Tour D’Argent. It has a flaky, crunchy exterior that showers you with crust dust as you dive into the gooey apple filling.
Chouquettes
The second hero of the Boulangerie is the Chouquettes which loosely translates to “little bits of choux.” It is a type of Choux pastry consisting of small dollops of dough crusted with pearl sugar. In my humble foodie opinion, the best one in Paris is at La Prairie by Thierry Racoillet near the Moulin Rouge. They are usually displayed in baskets perched atop the glass pastry cases of the boulangeries. Basically, they are profiterole shells—crisp, airy, and hollow. They are just a bit sweet, slightly rich, and eggy from the pastry. They are sold in a sack and make for better snacking than chips!
Pains Suisses
Pains Suisse translates as Swiss bread, but has nothing to do with Switzerland apart from the presence of chocolate perhaps? This treat is also known as a brioche suisse which is a particularly delightful viennoiserie. It consists of a buttery brioche dough or croissant dough rolled out and then folded around vanilla pastry cream like custard and sprinkled with chocolate chips. The chocolate is more evenly distributed than in pain au chocolate (chocolate croissant), and It is formed into a rectangle or a spiral that will not let you down. I like that it is creamy without dripping in goo. It’s as close to a Danish as we have in America minus the fruit.
Kouign Amann
My personal crush at the moment is with this tasty cake. The name comes from the Breton language words for cake (kouign) and butter (amann). It is around multi-layered cake, originally made with bread dough, or pastry dough, containing layers of butter and sugar folded in, similar in fashion to puff pastry but with fewer layers. The cake is slowly baked until the butter puffs up the dough and the sugar caramelizes. The effect is similar to a muffin-shaped, caramelized croissant which requires a ratio of 40 percent dough, 30 percent butter, and 30 percent sugar. How can that be wrong? Traditionally, kouign-amann is baked as a large cake and served in slices, although recently, the individual cupcake-sized pastries (kouignettes) have become more popular. Well-known French pastry personality Cyril Lignac wins the honors for the best one in town though it is easier to find a variety of flavors in the popular chain Maison Georges Larnicol MOF.
Tarte au sucres
In the North of France past Belgium, there is a tarte that can take on different forms. It is usually leavened dough topped with brown sugar which is unrefined and generally from the residual crystallization of syrup. In addition, there is butter or cream and sometimes eggs. The raw sugar material was imported from the colonies and passed through the port of Dunkirk before being refined in several large centers in the Nord department. Making it a particular treat in that area. It is considered a family pastry which has become a common product in supermarkets. If you visit any of the Paul bakeries you’re sure to see them. The family-owned bakeries dating back to 1889 and is always reliable and easier to find than Starbucks.
They have an interior of soft, light, thin layers, while others are like soft, doughy bread. The fact is the Viennoiseries of France are not to be missed. A croissant can be a work of art that you find around the world. Why not explore regional delights when you have the opportunity. I’ve always gone out of the way to find secret treats in every city I’ve visited, and hopefully, this list will give you a few ideas on your next adventure in Paris. Be sure to contact me the next time you’re in town for a guided tour including other treats you’ll remember.
After six months of waiting, I finally got the chance to spread my wings and take off on a new adventure. I have French/American dual citizenship which allows me to travel between the two countries despite some pesky restrictions. Itching to get away or just curious as to the process? Below is a recap of my travels and what to expect both Internationally and Domestically.
The first part of my trip seemed easy enough since I was leaving from France, which is a country with less coronavirus cases than the United States. I was flying from Paris to New York which is also considered post pandemic. Currently there are only 13 airports in the United States accepting overseas travelers. New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles are a few of them. You can connect to other domestic destinations as long as your point of entry is one on the list. There are no current restrictions between going from Europe to the States but there are several restrictions in doing the reverse.
Since I was not sure how it would go, I had a COVID PCR nasal swab test in France done 72 hours prior to boarding, just to be safe. I had it with my tickets in case of any question upon arrival. G day came and I arrived early and anxious to Charles De Gaul Airport which seemed like a ghost town compared to my last visit pre pandemic. At check-in my temperature was taken, and I was allowed to board the plane with no issues.
Upon boarding the plane, I was greeted by the flight attendant and given a sanitary wipe for my previously cleaned seat. I don’t think I have ever seen a cleaner plane, but I did wipe everything down to be safe. Medical grade masks where required but not provided on the plane. Fabric masks were allowed in the airport.
When it was time for meal service, we were given the choice of two boxed lunches, both of which were completely sealed in plastic. I opted for the cheese and meat box that was like a little French picnic in my seat. I didn’t mind that the meal was cold, it was nice to receive anything, when I thought meal service would be suspended. I had packed snacks to be on the safe side; but it wasn’t that long of a flight, so I knew I wouldn’t starve.
Before arrival in New York we were all given a contact form to fill out which required our local phone and email address to be contacted if someone from the flight became ill. I was in the front of the plane when exiting and therefore the screening line we encountered on exiting went relatively fast. There were few people ahead of me all of whom had filled out their forms correctly and didn’t require gentle coaching. With the capacity of the plane being low, the folks working on baggage had more time to deliver to the carousel than imagined. I was out of the airport in lightning speed.
I took a hotel shuttle to my nearby lodging where I would stay the night prior to my first domestic adventure. The desk agent informed me that though the restaurant was closed, they did offer room service with no minimum order or delivery charges. Entering the room, I was delighted to see the TV remote was in a clear disposable plastic bag allowing me to confidently use the control without removing the plastic.
Since I was tired and not feeling much like adventuring out after my anxious day, I opted for the in-room dining. I was not too hungry but was happy ordering a side of vegetables and a split of champagne delivered in a paper bag with sealed disposable utensils. I retired early since I was trying to acclimate to the time change, and had not slept on the plane. I also wanted to be prepared for the next leg of travel.
Similar to the day before, I arrived at a quiet airport. Half the shops and restaurants were closed; and lines went faster than usual other than Dunkin Donuts coffee, which seemed like a good idea with the extra time I had. My temperature was again checked, and I boarded the half empty plane. This was a small plane accommodating less commuters and allowing for the social distancing.
Though this typically is a standard one-hour direct flight, I was routed to Cleveland Ohio where I boarded another small plane to Pittsburgh. I asked why I needed to go out of the way and in essence double my travel time. It was explained that there are far less flights available due to the travel decrease and a hub stop was necessary. I didn’t mind, I had never been to Cleveland before, though all I saw was the terminal of the airport. They did socially distance on both the planes leaving my row exclusively for me.
No contact forms were asked for on these flights. I went from New York which has rebounded in C-19 cases to Pennsylvania where the numbers are still low, therefore there were no restrictions in regards to entering. If I was traveling to Pennsylvania from California, I would not be allowed to enter since the numbers are reversed.
Being a small plane, most people carried their bags aboard, but it was free to check one and since I had a connection flight, it seemed like a good idea. It was the only bag on the carousel and waiting for me when I arrived to claim it. I was the only person at the rental car agency counter as well, and quickly given a clean car that even had a note in it to ensure me that they had taken extra measures. This time I used one of my own sanitary wipes to be sure that all the buttons, screens, seat belts and handles were up to snuff.
I headed Northwest to the small town my mom lives in on the boarder of Ohio. On arrival at my hotel, I was greeted like royalty. I counted a very few cars in the parking lot, but who’s to say which were guests and which where employees. The desk agent seemed thrilled that they had something to do and went the extra mile to make me feel valued. I was given an upgrade to the King Suite and boy was that a treat.
I found cleaning wipes on my remote control and a reminder that housekeeping would only come on the third day unless specifically requested. I don’t usually have housekeeping come into my room, so this was not a problem. I mean how dirty can it get in a few days? I did stop at the desk a couple times for the fabulous makeup remover wipes they had in the bathroom.
After a fantastic time with my family, I head off to the next port of call. My journey continues from Pennsylvania where numbers were low to California that is listed as a red zone state with higher numbers. Like I mentioned it was not an issue to go from low to high.
I will let you in on a little secret tip I have that works wonders on those longer flights. Before I get to the airport, I stop at a candy store and get a box of chocolates. A good size box, not something small to enjoy personally. When I board the plane, I give the box to the flight attendant that is greeting guests. I thank them for the hard work they do and proceed to my seat.
On this flight, an attendant came to my row as the doors closed and asked me to get my things together. I followed her as she escorted me directly to Business Class telling me that this would be my new seat. I thanked her and she added they were thankful to me for having brought them the treats. A little kindness goes a long way. It worked on the flight from Paris to New York as well, making for a much more comfortable experience and less than paying for an upgrade.
Again, the flight was socially distanced, and my seat was sparkling clean. I was again given a sanitary wipe to further clean the space as I felt was necessary and I was relieved to find the wipe come up clean after a quick swipes over the screen, seat belt latch, window shade, headrest, armrests, seat back pocket and tray table. Off we were to the West Coast.
When debarking the plane in San Francisco, my temperature was tested in the jetway, and another form asking my local contact information was filled out before being allowed to proceed to baggage claim. Having been in Business Class, I was ahead of the the other flyers on the plane, and not subject to the line that followed. Feeling lucky, I was delighted to see my bag show up quickly and headed to the empty rental car area. The car seemed as clean as the last, with another reassuring note hanging from the rearview mirror.
The trip was wonderful, and I couldn’t have had a better time. But as my return date was sneaking up on me I had more to prepare for since I would be going from a Red Zone Country to an Orange Zone Country. To enter France at this time, you must have a negative COVID PCR test preformed within 72 hours of your flight, or you are not allowed to board the plane.
Since most test centers cannot guarantee results in that time frame, I was forced to drive a bit out of the way to a test center that could accommodate me. Just google rapid result COVID test center and options will come up for you. They even offer them at the CVS drive thru, you just need to do a little research ahead of time. If you need help do not hesitate to contact me!
They often have a checklist next to each location listed online telling you ahead of time if you need a doctor’s recommendation among other things. It will also tell you if you need an appointment and If you can get results the same day or the next day. Some test centers can do the test within 15 minutes but can cost you extra. Being alone is affordable but paying per person for a family can be challenging.
Some request a 24 hour turn around which you need to verify since some locations consider Saturday a non-workday. A flight on a Sunday can be a challenge but I found a number of places with a Friday/Saturday opportunity. The results come online so you do not need to return to the testing location. You will have to get it printed which is easy enough at a copy store or hotel business center.
It can be a bit of a stress to get the test done in such a short time. I know that it is different per country. For example; in the UK, Germany and Russia, they test you at the airport prior to check-in for a reasonable cost starting at 30 euros. France is in the process of doing the same, but the estimated start time of August 1st has passed and there hasn’t been any updated information about the program. I was happy to have the results in hand and was sad to see vacation time end. I had had good luck so far and was apprehensive that all would still be well in leaving the states for France.
I again arrived early to the San Francisco International Airport to ensure all was well. The Air France check-in counter was my first temperature checkpoint and my test results were verified. For $25 dollars I was able to access the Air France Lounge where they again checked my temperature.
Having arrived at the airport very early, I took advantage of the lounge benefits including lunch, cocktails and a bunch of free snacks and periodicals for the plane. It also gave me a quiet place to finish a couple of the American series I was binging in comfortable lounge chairs, complete with several charging sockets to be best prepared for the flight ahead. I definitely drank my fair share of champagne to ensure an early bedtime once aboard.
Before I settled into the lounge, I made a quick stop in a gift shop for a bag of Ghirardelli chocolate squares individually wrapped for even further sanitary measures. On entering the plane again, I went through the same procedure as done at check-in, I was to present the test results and have my temperature taken again, which seemed odd since not much could have happened in the couple hours I had been in the airport. Never the less I was happy to comply.
As I divulged earlier, I presented my flight crew with the bag of chocolates and was stopped halfway to my seat and escorted to the Business Class. Score. I was greeted whole heartedly with a glass of champagne and several thanks from crew members as they made their way to their stations. Even if they didn’t upgrade me, it feels nice to make someone’s day not to mention a 11-hour flight.
As protocol called for, I wiped down the frequently touched spots in my seating area. Though I wasn’t able to confirm the social distancing in the economy class, I had plenty of room in my category as there were just two of us in the entire section. Delighted, with a full glass of bubbly and a happy crew, we set off for France.
Before leaving the plane were asked to fill out the now expected contact form that was collected before we landed. Again, being in the Business Class paid off. The line to leave the plane was very short ahead of me, and I was able to bypass the long wait time my fellow passengers had to endure with the socially distanced exiting and post flight screening procedures.
At the exit of the plane my temperature was taken, and they reviewed my COVID PCR results placing a small sticker on my passport to indicate that I had been screened. There was an additional checkpoint for re verification as I entered the customs line. I was able to bypass many questions and forms since I was traveling on a French Passport, but I did hear some Americans being grilled as to why they were coming abroad. I was one of the first people at baggage claim and again retrieved my bag rapidly and sailed through the terminal with ease.
I made it to the RER Train ticket booth in the Charles de Gaul Airport to purchase my fare to the city with no line to wait in. After having bypassed so many trip obstacles, I would have been fine with at least one line, but as fate would have it, I didn’t need to wait. The travel gods were smiling on me and I was on the next train to Paris before the crowds. Or maybe there were no crowds?
Happy to have purchased my ticket, a man on the train in front of me was ticketed for not having paid. They call this “control points” and I shrugged knowing the line for the tickets was short and instead of paying 10 euros, he now had a fine of 50. I went from the RER train to the Metro which as luck would have it arrived at the same time as I did.
I was back home within an hour and half of landing since I had the energy to brave the public transit rather than the typical cab which would have cost 50 at a minimum. Not to mention the travel time by car would have been greater since traffic is bad with the closure of most streets in the center of town. Paris has become a biking town since lockdown. A large number of commuters have been scared out of the Metro and using other means of transport.
Because I had had a COVID negative test done within 72 hours, I was able to skip the 14-day quarantine required of many travelers. I was delighted when this was reconfirmed by the US Embassy when I called to verify.
I must say despite a few extra minutes to confirm my temperature and documents, nothing took additional time, if anything it took less time as there were fewer travelers. Nothing could have been easier and wearing a mask for several hours didn’t bother me. I loved not being crowded on the planes too.
Not having people up against me at every line was another joy. I loved the safety that they ensured me by the continual testing and couldn’t have been happier to be with a grateful crew. Not just for the chocolate but grateful to have travelers trust and believe in them and provide them with a sense of being.
All in all, I had an amazing experience. I traveled by Planes, Trains, Automobiles, Metros and even shuttles. I stayed in a variety of lodgings and came back with no fever or symptoms. Washed my hands, I wore my mask and I took advantage of the space that social distancing offers. I felt feverish from all the temperature taking, but that was just paranoia and a joke!
I am not saying that everything is safe, but I am saying that you should not be too worried about leaving your home. Even if it is just a short outing, I am living proof you can do it, enjoy it and stay healthy. There is a whole world waiting for you and soon you’ll be able to see it for yourself. Hopefully this little review of my experiences will build your confidence. If you plan to travel and need help please be sure to reach out to me and I will do my best to get you to Paris and back. Be sure that as soon as those borders open, I’ll be offering a COVID RELIEF special so we can enjoy our time together. Santé!